Bill, is always there to share his vast knowledge and experience and let us know how he
accomplished the task at hand. He always includes me in the email and says to use the
information to share with others as I see fit. Not wanting to lose Bill's thoughts and
ideas on a Bulletin Board, I have started this page for everyone to reference and gain
insight in how Bill tackled these projects.
Thank you Bill for taking the time and always helping all of us.
Coach Conversion Central
My installation is typical of an entertainer coach. I have
a thing about grills and screens, whereby I prefer the smooth look, however sometimes you
have to give a little or do a lot of work to get what you want!
The center bay is the service bay. Air is drawn up from under the coach through a hole
for both the generator and central air. Exhausting the heat from both the generator and
air is through the bay doors (both) sides. This is where the ugly screen comes in. My son
Mark and I are working on some more pleasing looking panels for Eagle to exhaust heat in
the service bay and motor compartment. Our generator is 220-240 V only! all 110-115 V is
taken from 3 inverters. One 2500W and two 500W. Unless someone has a better Idea I
cant see how you can run a dual voltage generator and be electrically load balanced.
Anytime you take a 110-115 leg off it you have unbalanced the load, now what RPM/load is
the generator supposed to run at? I hope that this helps you to formulate your decision!
Over 13,500 BTU normally is cut off for 110-115 V. These large basement units in the
entertainer coaches are usually running while waiting for the Gig to finish, so the coach
will be comfortable. Running the big diesel is not practical from the noise level
standpoint alone. Also most of these coaches have bus air when en-route and the generator
and basement air are then shut down! Until I make the final interior gutting and re-do, I
must work with what I have in order to use the coach while continuously upgrading.
Joe Steinmetz inquired regarding air for the driver. Used in the entertainment business
you can see from above this not a problem. However, a motor home with bus air in my
opinion is too costly. Therefore something else is needed. If we look at the manufactured
motor homes we see a dash air on most for the front with the roof tops as the main coach
For Joe and others who want a bay unit or units, I think we need the same
concept. The Eagle has a relatively small storage bay on the drivers side under the
electrical compartment which is used for break down and emergency things such as flares
and triangles. I looked at my coach this evening, and cant see why a 5000 BTU or so
unit would not fit comfortably in there! The face plate could be fitted with panning and
take offs for 4" flexible hose, then routed throughout the forward area. Heat
exhausting could be directed downward. The big unit is always available if it gets
severally hot. I hope that I did not make this more confusing!
Help!!! We have an 8 cubic foot, gas/electric,
Dometic refer in our RV that is not operating as it should be. It gurgles and sounds like it is running but it does
not get cold. We have been trying to find someone that knows something about RV fridges but so far
have come up with nothing. We would like to know where to find a repair person and/or a place to find another
one. We live in Wash. state so the closer the better but at this point were open to almost
anything. Your suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Pete and Betty
Some may differ, but let me give you the crash course on RV refrigeration as I
understand it. The good news is that from your description of the problem you can correct
Domestic refrigerators use Refrigerant 12, however some changes may be in the works. RV
refrigerators use a mixture of gass, in a precise ratio to one another. Also RV
refrigerant is under higher pressure. A give away to this is the heavy steel you can see
in your RV external(rear coils).
One of the Most obvious gass used in the RV unit is Ammonia! If you did not smell
ammonia, that indicates there is no leak in your coils. If there was a leak in the coils
very few agencies actually repair them. On the other hand, with most RV refrigerators you
can replace them yourself as a complete set not needing to be charged with gas. Its
not the easiest job in the world, but you can do it for around $300-$400 parts cost.
There are two common causes of RV refrigerators loosing their efficiency:
1. The gass become non uniform in mix and are scattered throughout the coil
system or hung up in pockets. The gurgling sound may be an indicator of this. Remove the
refrigerator and "burp" it! This is done by turning it upside down and let set
for a period of time. I would let it set over night. Next upright the refrigerator, let it
stand for ½ hr. or so then start it on 110V. Give enough time for it to cool, if it feels
cool after 45 min. or so, let it run over night with water in the ice cube trays. If you
have ice the next day, reinstall it, its fixed. If not "burp" it again. It
may take 3-4 tries, but after all, the work of getting it out has been done.
2. Some refrigerators which have been performing as expected regularly, will start to
lose their cooling capacity usually in their 2nd. or 3rd. day of
continuous operation. This is caused by heat building up in the flue area. The air is not
circulating fast enough to remove the heat. The heat in the condenser coils is not removed
therefore the gas goes around through the system again. Because no additional heat could
be extracted from the inside of the refrigerator, the interior cabinet started loosing
temperature. This is the point at which you noticed the problem.
Inspect for a birds nest or possible restriction. An auxiliary fan
(thermostaticly controlled would be best) to remove the heat from the flue should correct
Good luck with the fix!
Yours in Bussing:
Bill Phillips NY